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THE SERIES DERIVES much of its appeal (a quality likened by many to The Rockford Files) from the constant interplay between easy-over Magnum and the bookishly proper Higgins, adroitly played by veteran actor John Merman

His advertisements were simple and ironic, and the concept of backstage photos, popularized by Juergen Teller and Helmut Lang himself, offered genuine glimpses behind the scenes of his collections

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He gets away with one or two small payoffs a month, but occasionally, if there is a crackdown, as occurred last summer, then being in business can be unprofitable because he is extorted too often